Has anyone built the indymill cnc? I would like something diy. A full kit would be better but this one looks pretty doable if I order the plateset. Just seems like the project is old and not really being updated but it seems like cnc open source projects are not updated like 3d printer ones are.
I don’t think I would finish the printnc.
I have not bought the indy mill machine, but my first cnc was completely made from hardware store materials. This was before any of these newer kits were being marketed.
I would encourage you to check out Bulkman 3d on aliexpress for a similar kit. The open builds modular format lives on. MakerStore is now selling heavy c beam and I’m in the process of converting my home build openbuild type machine into a heavier duty one. Just a thought. One more thing, I built an openbuilds machine to machine plates and it was a good little mill.
+1 for the Bulkman store. I’ve never bought anything from it but I’ve looked at the kits there longingly. They are cheaper than I could buy the parts separately.
I built an OpenBuilds Ox. If I had it to do over, I would not use v-wheels. Or at least not on the x-axis and z-axis. Too much play/slop there. The two sides (y-axis) are fine with belts, but lead screws or ball screws are how I would do it now.
I’ve seen that kid’s (man now) builds and he seems pretty smart and thorough. Check out his YouTube channel.
Not to derail too far from the OP’s post but I have no real issues with the v wheels other than they collect dust and I’m sure I could mitigate that with covers and brushes. My X axis has 8 wheels on dual plates, My Z has 3 on a side of the c beam, the Y has dual plates with 8 wheels on each side too. I’m running 8mm lead screw through the standard delrin blocks and pretty happy with the accuracy. I’ve added more connectors and extrusion to aid in stiffening everything. That’s the key with these kits, as you are looking at bare minimum structural components. The beauty of the openbuilds concept is the lack of proprietary parts.
Fair enough. But my Ox doesn’t have C-beams, just straight 20mm by 60mm (or 80mm?). I really like the C-beam design, but it wasn’t around when I bought my Ox (back in the Google+ days).
I’ve seen taller Z-axis upgrades that use two separate X-axis supports that use v-wheels between them that looks like it would alleviate (or at least minimize) the play I have. In fact, if I ever get around to fixing this issue in my setup and I do it on the cheap, I’d do it by cutting new plates, adding the extra x-axis beam, and using a taller Z-axis extrusion. But if I went to all that trouble I’d probably just do a whole new build with C-beam with linear rail and screws. Then I’d sell or put the Ox off to one side for smaller tasks or as a backup. I mean, it works, but it is just kind of slow with the wimpy quiet cut spindle.
I want to upgrade the spindle but a more powerful one will overload my garage circuit so I need to upgrade my panel from 120Amp to 200Amp service first.
Thanks I have been looking at those I may go with that but of course always want something cheaper. I haven’t really even added up what the indymill would cost but I do have some stuff I could use on there already.
Yep been watching his channel and I think his design looks pretty good and simple. I definitely don’t want the v-wheels. I did build a mpcnc long ago and I cut a lot of stuff but it was pretty weak with the thin belts.
All I can tell you is the prices have doubled from a year or so ago. Even domestic shipping is expensive, so I’d look for something with free shipping if that is even possible.
I had been looking at bulkman3d and it’s funny on their website you have to pay shipping they sell on ebay too and there no shipping.
I would also look at aliexpress bulkman 3d. No shipping and there is a discount credit if more than a certain amount. You just have to be careful on what you click because all the buttons are for different things. I go by what it says now, not the picture.
The middle-of-the-road alternative is interdigitated belts.
One belt is glued down, and the other belt is interdigitated with it and passes below the wheels, and then up over a timing pulley.
Do you think that would be better than using ball screws? It seems like those are the most popular currently. I suppose belts are cheaper.
They are cheaper, but especially as the axes get longer. It’s definitely not better. I used it for my router because 1.5m is long for a ball screw. My CNC mill uses ball screws.
It was just because you mentioned that belt weakness that I thought you might be interested to know about the middle-of-the-road option, better than long belts stretching, not as good as ball screws.
I maybe should have said what I wanted to do with it. I guess what I want is something I can build that won’t be so hard I won’t complete it. I keep seeing printnc but I know I wouldn’t finish it with all the drilling and tapping. I ideally would want 24x24 inch cutting area. I just want to be able to cut wood and acrylic if it could do aluminum maybe I would find something I would want to make I am not aiming to cut steel.
I want one I can build vs buying one of those cheaper pre-made ones because I want a project for me and the 14 years old.
And of course less money better.
The mpcnc I made did 24x24 and used a ramps board with marlin. I had a dremel for a spindle. I actually used it to cut a ton of plywood and some hardwood. Couldn’t ever find speeds and feeds to do acrylic.
I have some extrusions, a open builds black box with interface, and the open builds router that I have collected so if I could use some of that stuff that would be a bonus.
At 24"x24" I’d certainly prefer ball screws myself. I have cut aluminum with the interdigitated belts but it was tricky and I broke multiple end mills. Ball screws are a better idea for sure.
I have had 9mm belts and pulleys on my X carve for years. They have been great. The only drawback is that they get chips in there. I don’t have an attached vac system, as the X carve one was kind of in the way. I have also dabbled with a ball screw to see what’s up with them. I am finding them heavy and bulky, and will need some grinding to fit into C beam ( my preferred extrusion now). The end bearings will not fit 2020 extrusion without custom plates, so there’s that. I kind of see the ball screws as the current " trend" to go with linear blocks, when I think in reality for the hobbiest, larger belts or the typical 8mm lead screw will provide good bang for the buck. I have a supply of HG15 rails and they are really heavy, There are lots of factors to consider and like a lot of things, there’s always something new coming down the pike. I’m pretty sure I’m gonna stick with my 8*8 4 pitch lead screws on my up dated rig.
I bought/built the Indymill some years back.
Quite pleased with it so far.
Made my own controller PCB with auto-squaring using hall sensors, and did a ballscrew-upgrade for the z-axis.
Details here.
The creator also demonstrates some other upgrades on YouTube.
Thanks! Did you do any other changes besides the Z axis? Hope you don’t mine me asking questions.
I am confused as to why he needs to flip the ball nuts?
Got any pics?
Ok I deliberated enough. I ordered the plates from Nikodem so now I have to stick with the indymill. (or waste 275 bucks)
I spent a short amount of time looking at the Indymill website and even downloaded the DXFs. I was wondering why he spec’d out such heavy ball screws for such a small size, as I’ve used 12mm ones and they are pretty heavy. The motors must be kind of big for that.