Any advise for printing ABS? I hate the stuff.

Any advise for printing ABS? I hate the stuff.
235 nozzle
85 bed
21 ambient, still
Brim. Usually 20 but only 9 would fit on this print. No difference.
Matterhackers pro ABS
Aqua Net extra super hold unscented

I’m going to try with an ABS/acetone solution but have little hope. Any advice would be welcome!

For my printer I have went to 3deez coating on a glass plate. 105 bed temp, enclosed the build area to shield from drafts and when the basement is cold I intoduce a 100 watt shop light to add a little radiant heat bulb to the build area.

You’ll never get satisfactory adhesion at 85c for the bed, you want 100c or as close as you can possibly get to it.

… Also trying to fit the part in the diagonal would allow for larger brim. I would also bring the bed temp. up.

@Nathan_Walkner ​, @Gary_Hangsleben
I will have to replace all the PLA components so they don’t warp.

I had the bed set to 100 but 12v just doesn’t cut it!

I have been able to sustain 100 on the bed but still got warping. perhaps drafts. Time to finish that enclosure I started I guess!

I am interested in new bed coatings. I’ll give this a shot.

ABS can be a bear to deal with Try some 3D EeZ and coat your build pate with it

After I installed a Printbite plate on the Ultimaker2 I have access to there have been zero bed adhesion issues. For ABS I use 230°c and 90°c bed. So my advise would be installing something like that. I haven’t even used a glue stick since I installed the plate and I never have to remove the plate for cleaning, just wipe it with a paper towel or swipe over it with Acetone.

Try adding some thicker discs to the model at the corners as hold down tabs. The problem is corners cool from both sides so you’ll never be able to maintain equal temperature in corners. So a thick cylindrical tab at the corner helps create more mass and more contact area.

Also have you ever thought about trying PETG. It is go to filament now.

Uhu or Elmer’s glue stick. 100-110c.

Gonna be the jerk here here and say “don’t even try” until you get the PLA parts out of your printer. A warm environment is mandatory for ABS, period. I wouldn’t recommend under 35C. (Getting up to 50C is huge, ABS turns into a fantastic filament to print with.)

Even if you succeed in getting the first layer to stick, the internal warping stresses between layers higher in the print (away from the heatbed) will cause the part to be much weaker than it should be. Printing brittle ABS kind of defeats the point of printing ABS, unless the only thing you need from the part is very high temp resistance. You get strong and warp-free ABS parts by printing in a hot environment.

More general advice on top of the other stuff people have posted:

  1. Low layer heights cause slower and more gradual accumulation of warping stresses, which helps prevent corner-lifting and cracking… say 0.15mm
  2. High nozzle temps improve layer bonding so you don’t get cracking and help add more warmth to the print to slow down thermal contraction. Particularly if you don’t need a lot of retraction, ABS is usually pretty tolerant of high temps, try cranking it up to 250C or thereabouts

@Ryan_Carlyle needs more plusses. I recently put a box over my printer, and added a 100W light bulb too (still had a few in the garage). Bed adhesion is almost a non-issue when printing in a warm enough environment.

You absolutely need an enclosure for abs. And for that, your parts need to be able to take the heat.
I was having a lot of problems with abs, and have gone through a few crazy solutions to fix. First I start with a high bed temp for the first layer, 100c or more, then drop it down to 85c. This will help your first layer to adhere by conforming to the surface. But if you’re bottom layer stays at 100c then it is too soft and will flex and warp as upper layers cool.
I also found that some glass is better than others. For whatever reason, some glass adheres better to abs, some don’t. The first sheet I had, prints stuck so well it cracked and chipped it. My replacement piece, they hardly adhere. I use acetone/abs mix, which works very well. But for glass where it just won’t stay, I switched to kapton tape. That made a huge difference. Other tapes might work too, I haven’t tried.
But an enclosure is a must.

Acetone wiped Kapton or buildtak, 110c bed, 18-20c room no drafts, press down the first layer or use a raft.

You probably won’t need need a box around your printer but printing ABS on pure glas and below 100°C it way too optimistic.

You should get yourself a better printing surface than just glass. I get real good (sometimes too good) adhesion with Buildtak buildplates, also other print plates work well like the one from or others.

You may still need to have a chamber depending on the material you use and the temperature around.

Like @Eclsnowman said i would probably think about using PETG instead of the ABS.

@Helmi You can print smaller objects without a box, and larger ones that are largely flat on the platform. I did so for years. But the image in the original post shows a box nearly 180 mm on one side, and that will always either curl off the bed or delaminate if the whole thing isn’t kept warm during the print.

PETG is interesting and makes very tough parts, but I found it too hard to remove supports. Layer adhesion is just that good.

Oh, by the way, another trick you can use for large ABS enclosure boxes is to add a lot of little vent holes to the sides, particularly near corners. The holes break up the stresses so the contraction doesn’t all add up cumulatively.Then radius/bevel the corners if you can. Long, straight extrusion strands leading up to sharp corners are the worst possible thing for warping/cracking. The sharper the corner, the worse it will tend to warp.

@Eclsnowman Have to agree with Eric on this one, I was printing a large print that kept curling, even with some (cardboard) draft protection. I went back and added some 1mm x 20mm discs on the bottom corners and not more curling.

Bed 100° C min, no fans, enclosed if possible, Printbite does magic. Never use glue anymore which was a must before. And keep infill to minimum that you are comfortable with. Had one part with 80% infill and it always warped and broke loose. Lowered to 60% and it printed fine.

Summary of comments so far: Ways to change your design so it will print in ABS, and a way to change your printer so it can print nearly any design in ABS (and stronger too).

If your machine is built of PLA, you must do the former. If it is built of ABS (or preferably, metal) do the latter.