Another image using the crc moly lube on stainless...this is cleaned using steel wool!

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(Scott Thorne) #1

Another image using the crc moly lube on stainless…this is cleaned using steel wool!

(Ariel Yahni (UniKpty)) #2

Super cool!!!

(Scott Thorne) #3

@Ariel_Yahni_UniKpty …thanks…I was just playing around today…first time I turned it on in a week.

(Alex Krause) #4

@Scott_Thorne ​ have you tried aluminum plate with moly? I think this would make an awesome way to finish off custom gantry plates/brackets for CNC and 3d printers

(0.45 NACL) #5

I have to get myself some of that stuff to play with.

(Anthony Bolgar) #6

Does moly lube work as good as cermark? Are there any benefits of one over the other?

(Alex Krause) #7

Moly lube is about 10$USD a can that’s a plus

(Jim Hatch) #8

Just got my CRC from Amazon today. Gotta try it after I wrap up a gift box for my son - he’s graduating college and I’m making him a business card box for his new company. First project using living hinges - wicked cool stuff, curves and stretches a bit too :slight_smile:

(Yuusuf Sallahuddin (Y.S. Creations)) #9

Wow that is a really cool effect Scott. How permanent is the resulting image? Also, wouldn’t steel wool scratch the steel? I’d test something like laying painter’s masking tape, doing a cut of the outline of the object (or a full engrave), then weed the sections you want to apply the moly, then apply moly, engrave, then remove all the remaining painter’s tape. Should minimise cleanup, but might be more work overall.

(dstevens lv) #10

@Alex_Krause I haven’t been able to get it to work well with AL. It looks good when it rasters but when I clean it most of it wipes off. I’ve tried several settings, focus, etc. With steel and stainless it’s good and easy to set up. I got a good raster on the second try with steel and used the same settings for SS. It’s not got the depth of color that the Cermark does but I’m not sure anyone would notice unless they were trying to compare.

(Alex Krause) #11

@dstevens_lv ​ what type of aluminum are you using to test? And was there any prep work before (sand blasting, alcohol, ect…) I know that some aluminum is sent from the factory with a lamanent or clear coat to help keep it corrosion resistant I guess we will find out in a week or so when my K40 arrives :slight_smile:

(dstevens lv) #12

@Alex_Krause Some 6061 T6 and 3003 H14. Both virgin pieces, nice and shiney, used acetone to clean prior to applying the CRC. Anodized and powder coated AL engraves well as does AL with Cermark applied. Using the dry moly on AL isn’t working for me.

(Scott Thorne) #13

@Alex_Krause …I’ve used aluminum also and I get the same result as stainless steel…it’s permanent and won’t come off with steel wool…although speeds have to be slow and powers high …50mm/s at 60%power

(Scott Thorne) #14

@Yuusuf_Sallahuddin_Y …the result is very permanent…I cleaned this with steel wool and it didn’t scratch at all…
Maybe something soft like aluminum would scratch.

(Scott Thorne) #15

@funinthefalls …Cermak is 100.00 a can…so yes it’s better than Cermak…lol

(Yuusuf Sallahuddin (Y.S. Creations)) #16

@Scott_Thorne Awesome, I will have to give it a test sometime. Would be a good way to mark tools for a mechanic/tradie to put their name/business details on it (so they don’t get stolen or if lost can be returned).

(ED Carty) #17

@Scott_Thorne NICE

(Yuusuf Sallahuddin (Y.S. Creations)) #18

I just had a thought Scott. Does it give different effect (or darkness) when you use different power levels?

(Scott Thorne) #19

@Yuusuf_Sallahuddin_Y …if I go with lower power levels it won’t adhere to the material.

(Yuusuf Sallahuddin (Y.S. Creations)) #20

@Scott_Thorne Ah, that is unfortunate. Could have produced some awesome effects if differing power levels would still adhere. I guess dithering is the only way to achieve something similar to a gradient then.