My Z axis appears to be out of line but i cant figure out where. I was facing a workpiece and noticed a line appearing where the stepover occurred. This was only appearing on the left hand side so i put it down to it being loose.i removed the fittings, cleaned it up and replaced everything, using a level to reset it. Now when facing, it seems to cause lines on both the left and right sides but different on forward and backward pass. Looking at the grain, it seems to be a slighty darker colour on the backward pass, and maybe .01/.02 difference between the backward and forward pass ??
Can anyone suggest any ideas.
What brand machine? I’m guessing that part flex, spindle runout, bit quality, table surface, wood type, speed, and wear could all be culprits besides squareness of your machine. I’d change the simplest thing and see if any changes result. When is the last time you surfaced your machine’s bed?
This is the Bulkman3d Utlimate Bee 1500 x1500 2.2kw, it has had very little use over the past few years due to various interupts. I am fairly sure this down to alignment on the Z axis, as the pattern has changed since i adjusted it. I will fit another bit and maybe a flat end mill and see how that goes but failing that what is the best way to align ? Should alignment only need doing in one spot on gantry or tested against a few ?
From what I see on the Bee, you have square linear blocks for rails. The side extrusions that hold the X axis up “could be” out of square as there aren’t too many things holding it together. I’d lower the Z and check that for square to the table. The other thing would be checking the Z connection to the X axis carriage. I put together an openbuilds rig myself and added extra sharp corner supports in many places to give it more connectivity to the parts.
Tram it,
I built one with a 12" piece of 1" square tube. I drilled 9/32" holes 1" from each end and one dead center. I used 1/4" CR round cut 2-1/2" long. I then used a drill and grinder to put a point on two of the priced of round. Then I threaded all three pieces. Then I nutted them with the point of the two for pointing at the bed, and the squared piece pointed the other direction for the center hole, that goes into the router.
(P.S.: DO NOT TURN ON THE ROUTER… MAKE SURE IT IS UNPLUGGED BEFOREHAND..)
I works “ok”, Better with ounce one pin sticking out. It at least shows which direction. the router is out of parallel to the bed/board.
Hello, and apologies for the very long delay in responding. Few issues at home that required attention.
I am in the process of replacing the Ply baseboard with a MDF one and attaching it to the frame in an attempt to keep everything as level as possible.
The current job is a V-Carce test using Millmage and the issue only shows when surfacing. I will have to re-run a surface test once everything is refitted and fastened down. Please bear with me, as i have several things i am juggling atm.
Sorry for the late reply, I have had a lot going. But here is the official redneck tramming tool.
I have a 1/4" collet in my Dewalt router, hence the 1/4" round stock, but it could be made with 1/8" stock as well..
I mount it into the collet, with the bit center at about center of the table.
Then lower it down till it touches and then lift it about 2 paper thickness’s.
then rotate it around until it touches the table(washboard).
I then figure out what direction the router needs to be adjusted to allow the tip to rotate and make those adjustments.
usually the x direction can be tapped with a neoprene hammer. and the Y direction can be adjusted with the screws mounting the gantry plates(using paper as shims toward the front or back)..
