A great idea for dealing with moisture-exposed hygroscopic filament.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fgBEZJlYdCI
Like he said, he needs to cut some vents, but really, that is a great way of dealing with moisture.
I’ve got some PC sitting around, too, but with my Budschnozzle I’m still too scared to go up to the temperatures where it gets good layer adhesion. Well, I guess trying out another hotend can’t hurt 
Hi, Where do you buy the polycarbonate?
I don’t know about the blood-red stuff that @Josef_Prusa is using in the video, but you can get clear polycarbonate from Protoparadigm or Ultimachine.
Ok. I need to test my new hotend with polycarbonate. Thank you 
@Daniel_Casares What hot end is it? Does it contain PTFE? If so, it’s not safe to run at polycarbonate temperatures.
No no, I’m trying to copy the hotend of Prusa. My latest version is only steel and brass. The documentation will upload soon and translate it into English. The name is Shiva hotend
Shiva!
Yes, my shiva hotend the’m developing for inclusion in the kits of parts that I sell in my store:
http://shop.reclone3d.com/en/
Aluminum is lighter, cheaper and conducts heat better. Especially lighter seems important since the heater cartridge is dangling from a rather long and thin rod.
I see no reason why one would not want to use aluminum.
Aluminum is definitely better for the heater block. Stainless steel is the best material for the barrel for a thermal transition, but brass is good for nozzles because it is harder than aluminum (you can make it pointy and it won’t get bent easily), but it’s still relatively easy to machine (unlike the stainless steel).
The Bukobot has a (brassless) Budaschozzle, right?
The 'schnozzle’s flat nozzle design works pretty well since it squishes the extrusion flat and does not get caught on pieces that might stick up.
And yes, stainless is a bitch to machine, but there’s no alternative that has a low enough thermal conductivity.
Different nozzle designs have different strengths and weeknesses. Personally, I prefere the QU-BD hot end, and I’m using my personal Bukobot to experiment with using one instead of our stock extruder for a possible switch.
On brass, that the frictional resistance is very low and therefore it is necessary that the plastic does not form a plug on the tip